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How to Crochet a Granny Square: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

Updated · 6 min read

The granny square is probably the most recognizable shape in crochet. It’s small enough to finish on a lunch break, uses only a couple of stitches, and can grow into a blanket, a cardigan, a bag or a cushion cover. If you can make a chain, a slip stitch and a double crochet, you can learn how to crochet a granny square today.

This guide uses US crochet terms. If you usually follow UK patterns, the double crochet (dc) below is called a treble (tr) in UK terms.

What you need

  • Yarn: a smooth, medium-weight (worsted or aran, weight 4) yarn is easiest to see and count. Acrylic or cotton both work. Scraps are fine, since each round uses only a little.
  • Hook: the size recommended on your yarn label, typically 5 mm (H-8) for medium-weight yarn.
  • Scissors and a tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
  • Optional: a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.

Understand the structure first

A classic granny square is made of clusters: groups of three double crochet worked into the same space. Every round has four corners and, after the first round, one or more side spaces between them.

  • Corners get two clusters separated by a chain-2 space: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).
  • Sides get one cluster in each chain-1 space between the corners.
  • Clusters are separated by a chain 1 along the sides.

Once you see that pattern, you don’t really need written instructions for later rounds. Each round simply adds one more side cluster per side than the round before.

How to crochet a granny square, round by round

Starting ring

Chain 4 and join with a slip stitch into the first chain to form a small ring. Alternatively, start with a magic ring (adjustable loop), which lets you pull the center hole tight. Both methods work; the magic ring gives a neater center, while the chain ring is a little easier for first-timers.

Round 1

  1. Chain 3. This counts as your first double crochet.
  2. Work 2 dc into the ring. You now have your first cluster.
  3. Chain 2 for the first corner.
  4. *Work 3 dc into the ring, chain 2.* Repeat from * two more times.
  5. Join with a slip stitch into the top of the starting chain-3.

You should have four clusters and four chain-2 corner spaces. If your ring has closed up around the stitches, don’t worry: that’s what it’s supposed to do.

Round 2

  1. Slip stitch into the next 2 dc and into the next chain-2 corner space. This moves your hook to a corner without cutting the yarn.
  2. Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc), then work 2 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc into the same corner space.
  3. Chain 1.
  4. *Into the next corner space work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), then chain 1.* Repeat from * two more times.
  5. Join with a slip stitch into the top of the starting chain-3.

You now have eight clusters: two in each corner, with a chain-1 space on each side.

Round 3

  1. Slip stitch into the next 2 dc and into the corner space.
  2. Chain 3, then (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same corner space. Chain 1.
  3. Work 3 dc into the next chain-1 side space, then chain 1.
  4. *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in the next side space, ch 1.* Repeat from * two more times.
  5. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain-3.

Round 4 and beyond

Keep going with the same logic: corners always get (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), and every chain-1 space along the sides gets a single cluster followed by a chain 1. Each new round adds one extra side cluster per side. Stop whenever your square reaches the size you want, then fasten off by cutting the yarn and pulling the tail through the last loop.

Changing colors

Many granny squares change color every round. The neatest approach is to finish a round, fasten off, and join the new color directly in a corner space:

  1. Make a slip knot with the new color and place it on your hook.
  2. Insert the hook into any corner space, yarn over, and pull through both the space and the loop on your hook to secure it.
  3. Chain 3 and continue the round as usual.

Starting each new color in a different corner helps hide the seam. Crochet over the old and new tails for a few stitches to reduce the ends you’ll need to weave in later.

Common granny square problems and fixes

My square is twisting or turning into a pinwheel

This often happens when you don’t turn your work, because stitches lean slightly in one direction. It’s normal and blocking usually straightens it. Some crocheters turn the square at the end of every round to counter the lean; if you do, keep it consistent across all squares.

My corners are rounded, not sharp

Check that you’re working a chain 2 (not a chain 1) in every corner and that both corner clusters go into the same space. Tight tension can also pull corners in, so try a larger hook for the corner chains or loosen up slightly.

My square is cupping or rippling

Cupping (edges curling up like a bowl) usually means your side chains are too tight or you’ve missed a cluster. Rippling or waviness suggests too many stitches or chains that are too loose. Count your clusters per side: in round 3 there should be three clusters per side (two corner halves plus one middle), in round 4 four, and so on.

My squares aren’t the same size

Tension changes from day to day, and different colors or brands of yarn can vary slightly in thickness. Use the same hook and yarn line for a project, and block all squares to the same measurement before joining.

Joining granny squares

When you have a stack of squares, there are several ways to put them together:

  • Whipstitch: hold two squares right sides together and sew through the back loops with a tapestry needle. It’s simple and nearly invisible.
  • Slip stitch join: hold squares together and slip stitch through both edges with your hook. It’s quick and creates a slight ridge you can place on the front as a design feature or on the back to hide it.
  • Single crochet join: like the slip stitch join but with single crochet, producing a sturdier, more visible seam.
  • Join-as-you-go: attach each new square to its neighbors while working its final round, which saves a lot of sewing at the end.

For a flat finish, block your squares first so edges line up evenly. After joining, a border of a few rounds of single crochet or granny clusters around the whole piece gives a polished edge.

What to make with granny squares

  • A blanket or throw, by joining many squares in a grid
  • Cushion covers, using two large squares or a panel of small ones
  • Coasters and pot holders from a single thick square
  • Tote bags and market bags
  • Cardigans, vests and tops built from squares
  • Scarves made from a long strip of joined squares

You’ll find a classic granny square pattern, a granny blanket and an African flower hexagon among the projects in The Best Crochet Projects, and joining methods such as sewing pieces together and overcasting are covered in Crochet Pattern Techniques.

Tips for your first square

  • Use a light, solid color yarn so you can see the stitches and spaces clearly.
  • Count your clusters at the end of every round before joining.
  • Don’t pull the joining slip stitch too tight, or the next round will be hard to start.
  • Leave yarn tails of at least 6 inches so you can weave them in securely.
  • Make a few practice squares before committing to a blanket; your tension will improve with each one.

Keep learning

A granny square uses only a few basics, which makes it a perfect confidence builder. If you’d like more practice with the double crochet and the other core stitches, or if you’d like a guided path from first chain to finished projects, take a look at The Crochet Bible collection. It pairs step-by-step stitch guides with dozens of projects to try next, all as instant-download PDFs you can keep beside your yarn.